I've noticed when creating a new event in the iPhone's Calendar, sometimes it gives me a far far away date (usually if I've been looking at old, or future events), or previous recurrences of an event (two years ago, for example). By default, date is displayed as Weekday-Day-Month, Hour and Minutes. Changing to another month, or worse, another year, is a time-consuming task.
One obvious solution is to cancel that event, go to Today, and create a new one, so the date is closer to the desired one. But if you have already typed information about the event, it may be frustrating to re-enter all of it.
A simpler way to get the right date quickly is to turn on the All-Day event switch, so the date picker changes to Day, Month, Year. Simply change your date, and turn off the All-Day switch again to enter the hour.
I have a friend who had their G5 die, and they are relying on their iPhone while waiting for their new iMac to ship. However, they have been having issues with the various bugs in the iPhone's 2.0.x software. So I decided to update their iPhone from my MacBook Pro. I couldn't find any documentation that said if it was possible, so I gave it a try.
When you first plug in the other iPhone, iTunes asks you to erase and sync the phone; hit Cancel at this point. Next, select the iPhone in the Devices column, and uncheck the 'Automatically sync when this iPhone is connected' and 'Sync only checked songs and videos' boxes in the Options section of the Summary tab. Now click the Update button to run the update.
The iphone will do its update thing, and no data will be lost.
I kept building up my photo collection on the iPhone's Camera Roll. There is no obvious way to delete a bunch of them -- short of deleting all of them -- from iPhoto (or even iTunes). You can, howver, use the Image Capture in OS X to do it.
Launch Image Capture and hit the Download Some button, and you are then free to roam the camera roll, selecting and deleting multiple images. My camera roll had over 1,000 photos in it, and taking pictures got very sluggish. You can erase them from the camera roll and sync them though iTunes. Browsing is much faster on synced rolls than on the standard Camera Roll.
[robg adds: Obviously, you could use iPhoto to import all, then say yes when asked if you want to delete the images after the import is done. If, for some reason, you wanted to keep some images in the Camera Roll, then this hint would work. The use of Image Capture was noted in the comments to this hint, but I felt it worth sharing as a separate hint.]
After two iPhone replacements, five Genius bar visits, two new SIM cards, the 2.1 software update, and countless restores, I have identified a relatively simple fix for the following two iPhone problems:
While in sleep mode, the iPhone hangs when receiving a phone call.
The Contacts app launches slowly, and exhibits jerky scrolling (especially with large contact databases)
It turned out I had a corrupt Contact app record -- my own. I did all my iPhone testing (on both of my iPhones) by calling the iPhone from my home phone. Here's my theory of what happens when the iPhone get an incoming call:
The iPhone detects an incoming phone call and awakens
The iPhone grabs the caller ID information
The iPhone application MobliePhone passes the caller ID information to the application Contacts
The Contacts application looks in its database for a record that matches the caller ID
If there is a match, a picture of the caller and name (if present), are displayed on the screen, and phone rings.
If that matching Contact record is corrupt, however, it takes a long time to open (maybe five to seven seconds). The MobilePhone application freaks out while waiting for the Contacts application, and the phone hangs. (I exhibited this problem 100% of the time on four separate iPhones.)
My iPhone 3G locked up on me recently. I mean it really locked up on me. The Sleep plus Home button reset trick (hold both for about 10 seconds) wouldn't work. The iPhone wouldn't get passed the initial Apple logo while booting. Plugging it into iTunes simply caused iTunes to freeze. There was nothing I could do.
So after taking it to an Apple store and talking with a Genius there, I learned this trick for forcing the iPhone to go into restore mode. WARNING: This is a last restort! All the data on your iPhone will be cleared and it will be reset to factory defaults.
Turn off the iPhone (you can hold down the Sleep button, or use Sleep + Home, and release as soon as the screen shuts off).
Hold down the Home button while connecting to your computer with iTunes already open and ready for a connection.
iTunes will prompt you to perform a software restore.
Your iPhone will obviously be wiped new and be reset as a result and you wil have a working iPhone again.
This proceedure is probably documented somewhere, but in two days of searching I couldn't find this. Nor did the tech support person on the phone know to do this in the script they were obviously reading from when I called Apple directly. Leave it to the guys in the trenches at the Genius bar to know the solution. I hope this helps someone else.
[robg adds: I had this happen to me numerous times with my first gen iPhone and iPhone software 2.0.x. The above method is actually documented on Apple's support site (though it's not in the latest iPhone User's Guide), but it's not necessarily easy to find, so I felt it worth sharing here. The good news is that, since the release of iPhone 2.1 software, I haven't had this happen a single time. Hopefully this hint won't be needed any more.]
While there are many reasons to want to conceal only a part of one's browsing history, there's no official way to browse privately, or selectively delete, history entries on the iPhone. However, I recently discovered, through equal parts curiosity and accident, a way to achieve a similar result.
Browse to a site you'd like to keep out of your browser history, conduct your business, and then when you're done, navigate to a less-sensitive site. Then hold the Home button down until Safari "force quits" back to the iPhone's home screen. When you reopen Safari, you'll see the last page you had open, but when you check history, you'll find nothing from the last session except that page.
YouTube App works similarly, but you don't need to navigate to a new page. Once you force quit, that entire session apparently vanishes into the ether. This is more useful, for me at least. Most of us don't have prying spouses furiously scouring our phone's browser history, but anyone with kids has had to share YouTube with them. There may not be any porn on YouTube, but with my sick and childish sense of humor, there's plenty I'd like to shield my seven year old's eyes from seeing. Now I don't have to periodically clear my history.
I can't say for sure whether the Safari trick prevents cookies being stored; I guess I'll find out next time I shop for airline tickets. As this is sort of a bug, or at least not necessarily intended behavior, it may vanish with a future update. Hopefully it's a lower priority than copy/paste!
If you have a PDF document embedded in a web page, the iPhone won't let you look through it with one finger scrolling. However, if you start using two-finger scrolling on the document, you can scroll around it like any other web page. The pinch/expand gesture also works to zoom in or out on the PDF.
The iPhone will load it pretty slowly, but it'll get there eventually.
This probably applies to the iPod touch, too, but I've only tested it on the iPhone. If you use the iPhone's headphones (or a third-party set with click-control), iPhone 2.1 adds one more feature to the clicker: triple-click to jump back one song. So one click will pause the current song, two clicks will jump forward one track, and three (very quick) clicks will jump backward one song.
Although the AIM iPhone application works great, the chats are not encrypted. Although iPhone email is great, there is no way to receive or send SMIME email. So, if you are an iPhone user who wants to send a secure message or have a secure conversation with another iPhone user or a computer user what can you do? Without spending a fortune? In fact, doing it for free?
What we did is create a "sharing" IMAP Gmail account with https set as a requirement in the Gmail settings. Then all persons who will need to have the ability to send/receive secure communication get login credentials for this shared Gmail account. (Granted, anyone who has access to this account can read any messages, but we obviously could create other shared email accounts as needed to deal with smaller groups.)
With that set up, when someone needs to send a secure message, they send (via email or AIM) notification to the other parties that they are posting a secure communication. Then, using the wonders of IMAP Gmail, they create a message on the shared Gmail account via an encrypted SSL connection (with no To: addressee ... just to be sure it doesn't accidentally get sent!), and save the message as a Draft. (On the iPhone, to save a draft, you compose a message and then choose Cancel -- it will then ask if you want to save it as a draft.)
Once the Draft is saved, the users who need the message and have the login credentials can access the Gmail account via an SSL encrypted connection from any computer or iPhone. Once they have the info, they then delete the Draft message.
I found it necessary to go through an authorization process to use apps from the iTunes app store on a second iPhone/iPod Touch. This might seem unremarkable but, curiously, the computer on which the apps were saved in iTunes was already authorized for iTunes purchases and, on attempting to sync the apps to the second iPhone, the obtuse error message was that "this computer" was not authorized for the apps.
The hint to make it work was to double click on each app icon in the iTunes list (while the receiving iPhone is connected) and authorize the app for use on another machine (up to five can be authorized).
The reference in the error message to "this computer" clearly is meant to be "this iPhone/iPod Touch."