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Peek inside zip archives from Terminal UNIX
Have you ever wanted to see what's in a Zip archive without unzipping it? Well, it turns out that there is a Terminal command you can use to do so: zipinfo. Just run zipinfo [filename] to get a list of files in an archive.

There are a number of interesting options to this command. The default behavior is to list the files in a short "ls -l" format, but you can also use the -m or -l options to have medium or long lists. You can use the -1 option to only show file names. And there are other useful options in the man zipinfo page.

One other useful item is the amount of space the archive takes up, and the amount of space saved. For example:

12 files, 10587791 bytes uncompressed, 9400060 bytes compressed: 11.2%

It's worth noting that this command has been around for a long time, and I was surprised to find that it's not mentioned here.
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Peek inside zip archives with Quick Look System
Following yesterday's hint about a Terminal command to look inside zip archives, I was informed that there's a Quick Look generator called BetterZip that can do the same thing, but from the Finder. Install BetterZip in either /Library/QuickLook or ~/Library/QuickLook (you may need to create the folder), then log out and log in again, or relaunch the Finder.

When you select a zip archive in the Finder, and press the Space bar, the BetterZip QuickLook generator will show a graphical display of the contents of the archive. If you don't want to use the command line, and want to see what files an archive contains, this is a great way to do so.
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Access Wireless Diagnostics app in OS X 10.8.4 or later Apps
New to OS X 10.8.4 is a Wireless Diagnostics app, which you can access from the Wi-Fi menu extra in your menubar (press the Option key, click the Wi-Fi menu extra, then choose Open Wireless Diagnostics), or by double-clicking the app in /System/Library/CoreServices.

Apple provides information about this app, which generates an archive of log files for troubleshooting. Wireless Diagnostics also features a number of informational sections. After you've generated a log, a Summary screen offers you information about Wi-Fi Best Practices, and provides information about any issues you may have.

A Utilities window (accessible from the Window menu) provides more information about your Wi-Fi network. It lets you scan all available Wi-Fi networks, offers a performance log, and much more.

This is a powerful tool, which can be very helpful if you are having Wi-Fi problems.

[kirkmc adds: I found, after posting the hint, that this isn't new. It's been available at least since Mac OS X 10.7. I didn't find it when searching the site because it used to be called Wi-Fi Diagnostics. OS X 10.8.4 brings version 2 of the app, a "major revamp," according to my Macworld colleague Dan Frakes.]
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Easily update Mail plug-ins for new UUIDs Apps
Yesterday's hint about finding new UUIDs, to re-enable Mail plug-ins after an OS X update, featured some information in a comment that's worth highlighting. There's an app called MailPLuginFix which claims to be able to fix disabled plug-ins by setting the new UUIDs with a few clicks:
Just start the application and you will see a list of all incompatible plugins for your current installation. Just select the ones you would like to fix and press the start button in the toolbar. All selected plugins will get patched with the UIDs of the current version and also all disabled plugins will be enabled again.
I haven't tested this, since I already updated my plug-ins, but if you get irked each time Apple updates Mail and your plug-ins stop working, it's worth checking this out.
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Re-enable Mail plug-ins in OS X 10.8.4 Apps
With OS X 10.8.4, Apple has updated Mail, which means that plug-ins that are not up-to-date won't work, and will be placed in a ~/Library/Mail/Bundles (Disabled) folder. In order to get any plug-ins to work, you'll need to find the new UUIDs and add them to the plug-ins' info.plist file.

We ran a hint about this back in 2010, but it's good to remind people how to do this. You want to run two commands in Terminal to get two different UUIDs:
defaults read /Applications/ PluginCompatibilityUUID

defaults read /System/Library/Frameworks/Message.framework/Resources/Info PluginCompatibilityUUID
For OS X 10.8.4, the UUIDs are:


Look inside your plug-in's folder, and find the info.plist file, in a Contents sub-folder. Double-click the file to open it with Xcode, or use a text editor. If using Xcode, click the disclosure triangle next to SupportedPluginCompatibilityUUIDs, then click + to add each new UUID.

If you're doing this with a text editor, you want to add the new UUIDs in the end section of the file, which looks like this:
Move the plug-in back to the ~/Library/Mail/Bundles folder, quit Mail, then relaunch it, and the plug-in will get loaded. However, this doesn't mean that the plug-in will work; there may have been changes to Mail which require further updates to the plugin. YMMV.
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Archive iOS device backups iOS devices
When you sync an iOS device to iTunes, it is backed up; by default, this backup goes to your Mac, but you can also set it to go to iCloud. When you save backups on your Mac, there's plenty of data and settings saved, so you can restore the device, or even set up a new device, using a backup.

Dave Hamilton, writing at The Mac Observer, recently pointed out that you can also archive backups. To do this, go to iTunes' Preferences, then click on Devices. Right-click or Control-click on one of your devices, then choose Archive. The name of the backup in the Device Backups list will change, to contain the name of the device and the date it was last backed up. The next time you sync your device, iTunes will create a new backup, and retain the old one.

Interestingly, when I checked my backups, I found a number of older ones, with dates, that weren't there before. I suspect this feature is new to iTunes 11.0.3, the latest update to iTunes, because I'd not seen these older backups before.
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Radical fix for dead iMac center fan Desktop Macs
The Power Management Controller (PMC) failed for the center (hard disk) fan in my iMac Core 2 Duo 3.06 27-Inch (Late 2009). The two outer fans work perfectly, but no center fan gets no power at all.

It took me three tries, but I finally got it right. It's an ugly fix, but it works great.

1. First i got Marcel Bresnik's free Temperature Monitor to read the disk's temperature. It shows the hard disk temperature in the dock. when it started to show close to 130 F, I would shut down the Mac. This was unacceptable.

2. I got a small, square USB fan and attached it over the rear center hole with velcro. This made the heat buildup at the hard disk worse. I figured the new fan was blowing air out of the original fan's intake, so air was moving in the wrong direction. And I couldn't tilt the screen down.

3. So I watched some how-to videos before cracking the case. I had to pull off the motherboard to access the center fan and place a double layer of clear tape over the fan's intake. Then I re-attached the USB fan on the back, and this seemed to cool the disk much better. However, I still could not tilt the screen down. If you are comfortable with the screen not tilting downward properly, you could stop here, but I got better cooling by continuing...

4. I found a short piece of hose from a vacuum cleaner, which even had a small HEPA filter. Then I made a small wooden box for the fan, complete with the air filter.

Next, I used a hole saw and cut a 2-1/8 inch circle out of the stand, directly behind the iMac's center air hole. I installed my custom-filtered fan on the stand with more velcro, and the hose running thru the stand hole directly into the center hole of the iMac. The original fan's air intake is still taped over.

a. My hard disk's temperature has not exceeded 120 degrees in over three years. I keep Temperature Monitor in my Dock to make sure.
b. The two (working) original fans operate normally, without additional software. I think this is important, as I doubt they were intended to run at full speed forever, and running them at full speed pulls dirt into the machine.
c. The new fan makes a very, very small amount of noise, and it's filtered air.
d. The three-inch section of vacuum hose extending thru the stand hole has enough flex that I can tilt the screen easily, while maintaining proper air flow.
e. I already had a hole saw, so for me the only cost went to a cheap USB fan.

Notes: Opening the iMac case is not simple. The hard part is getting just the right parts. You need a suitable USB fan, a fan housing (filter optional), wide cellophane tape, velcro, some kind of 2-inch hose that is flexible, a drill that isn't too fast, and a hole saw available for $10 at any hardware store.

Cutting the hole is scary to think about, but it's a lot easier than it sounds. It does not harm the integrity of the stand (there is already a larger hole in it). The aluminum is soft enough to cut cleanly and easily. Put a piece of paper underneath to catch the filings, and don't allow the aluminum particles to enter the iMac. Mark the center and use the saw's center bit to start the cut and maintain the center position. Do not try to go too fast, or press hard. It cuts like butter!

Do not use a high-speed drill; it will get hot, and you don't want that. Use a medium- low-speed drill and take your time. You might even pause for a few minutes halfway through the cut to avoid heat build up. It will stay cool enough that the silver paint will be completely unaffected. A nail file will clean up any sharp edges.

In the end the only problem is that the fan uses one USB port, and I guess it looks a little strange when you peer around the back, but i don't care about that.

[kirkmc adds: Well, I have to admit, I'd never have done something like that, and I find the solution quite creative. It's certainly a lot cheaper than replacing whatever part of the iMac would need to be changed.]
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Resolve problems logging into iMessage and FaceTime on iOS iOS devices
If you're unable to login to FaceTime and iMessage because the login process repeatedly loops, check the time settings. If the time is not set to automatically adjust (Settings > General > Date & Time > Set Automatically > On), you might find that the login sequence for both FaceTime and iMessage loops. Once you set the time to adjust automatically, all is back to normal.

[kirkmc adds: I've never had any problems, since I've always had that setting set to On. But I've found that a number of odd settings can affect logging into Apple services, so it's worth pointing out.]
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Move Dropbox sub-folders to other disks or volumes Apps
If you have a Mac with an SSD, and limited storage space, and use Dropbox, you may want to think about how much space your Dropbox folder takes up on your disk. Jeff Carlson, writing at TidBITS, had this problem, wanting to use Dropbox's Camera Upload feature on his MacBook Pro, but not wanting to have the space taken up on his SSD.

The solution he explains is relatively simple: it involves creating a symlink for the folder in question after moving it to another disk or volume. After moving the folder, open Terminal, then type:
cd ~/Dropbox
Type ln -s, then drag the folder from its new location into the Terminal window, which will add its path; press Return.

This symlink lets Dropbox use the Camera Uploads folder, as if it were in the main Dropbox folder, yet the files are stored on the external disk.

You can do this with other Dropbox folders as well. For me, I use Dropbox's Selective Sync (Preferences > Advanced) to choose which folders get copied to my MacBook Pro, and have everything on my Mac mini, which has more storage.
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Fix dimmed iOS dictation button iOS devices
I use dictation a lot on my iPhone. I have big thumbs, and typing on the iPhone's keyboard ledas to myna rerrors. So occasionally, when I see the dictation button is dimmed, I get quite frustrated.

iMore recently posted an article about how to fix this issue.

Apparently, this occurs when memory on the iOS device gets too low; the solution is then to force-quit as many apps as possible. You do this by double-pressing the home button to show the application switcher, then tapping and holding an icon until they all wiggle. Tap on the "do not enter" buttons at the top-left of the icons to quit them. Press the home button again to close the application switcher.

Since I saw the above article last week, I haven't had the dimmed dictation button, so I haven't been able to test this. I'd been restarting my iPhone when this problem arose. If you've seen this problem, please post in the comments to say whether this solution works for you.
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