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<title>macosxhints.com other hardware tips</title>
<link>http://hints.macworld.com/index.php?topic=hwother</link>
<description>Tips and tricks for working with assorted hardware in OS X, from macosxhints.com</description>
<managingEditor>webteam@macosxhints.com</managingEditor>
<webMaster>webteam@macosxhints.com</webMaster>
<copyright>Copyright 2012 Mac OS X Hints</copyright>
<generator>Geeklog</generator>
<pubDate>Thu, 25 Oct 2012 07:30:01 -0700</pubDate>
<language>en-gb</language>
<atom:link href="http://hints.macworld.com/backend/hintshwother.rss" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
<item>
<title>Partition a Fusion drive </title>
<link>http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20121025003556413</link>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20121025003556413</guid>
<pubDate>Thu, 25 Oct 2012 07:30:00 -0700</pubDate>
<comments>http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20121025003556413#comments</comments>
<dc:subject>Other Hardware</dc:subject>
<description>This is less of a hint than a heads up. I was chatting with Rob Griffiths yesterday, the creator of this web site, wondering if one can partition a Fusion drive. It turns out that you can, but only the hard drive part of it. This, and many other questions, are addressed in &lt;a href=&quot;http://support.apple.com/kb/HT5446&quot;&gt;this Apple technical note&lt;/a&gt;, which is worth reading. The Fusion drive is a new technology, and has certain limitations because of the way it works, but it can be useful to see what these limitations are.  
</description>
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<item>
<title>Play 1080p videos on 2nd generation Apple TV</title>
<link>http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=2012101808090317</link>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=2012101808090317</guid>
<pubDate>Tue, 23 Oct 2012 07:30:00 -0700</pubDate>
<comments>http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=2012101808090317#comments</comments>
<dc:subject>Other Hardware</dc:subject>
<description>Having searched the web, I could not find any reference to playing 1080p videos on the 2nd generation Apple TV (fully updated with the latest firmware). The Wikipedia entry, for example, states that it is 720p only. But my experiments show that 1080p movies can play just fine. The problem comes when downloading 1080p movies from the iTunes store. This hint shows how to quickly play such downloads.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; Prior to purchasing a 1080p movie from the iTunes store I ran many experiments with self-created videos (Blu-Ray rips) to ensure that such HD files could be played.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; So I completed my experiments by purchasing a 1080p movie (Vertigo to be exact). iTunes downloads two versions when making such purchases: the HD version and a SD one. Both are stored in the same iTunes folder and iTunes itself shows an HD:SD badge. The problem here is that the 2nd generation Apple TV only shows the SD version and therefore only plays the SD version. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; To play the HD version, locate ...</description>
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<item>
<title>Take a screenshot on a Kindle Paperwhite</title>
<link>http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20121018005632718</link>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20121018005632718</guid>
<pubDate>Thu, 18 Oct 2012 07:30:00 -0700</pubDate>
<comments>http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20121018005632718#comments</comments>
<dc:subject>Other Hardware</dc:subject>
<description>Seen on Twitter: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blankbaby.com/&quot;&gt;Scott McNulty&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://twitter.com/blankbaby/status/258757071367966720&quot;&gt;shared&lt;/a&gt; how to take a screenshot on a Kindle Paperwhite. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; &quot;Tap the upper right corner and the lower left at the same time. Screen flashes, screenshot saved to the root.&quot;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; Scott should know; he owns more Kindles than anyone except Jeff Bezos. 
</description>
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<item>
<title>Arrange icons on the Apple TV menu</title>
<link>http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20120928034321621</link>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20120928034321621</guid>
<pubDate>Fri, 28 Sep 2012 07:30:00 -0700</pubDate>
<comments>http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20120928034321621#comments</comments>
<dc:subject>Other Hardware</dc:subject>
<description>Apple has published a &lt;a href=&quot;http://support.apple.com/kb/HT5490&quot;&gt;technical note&lt;/a&gt; explaining how to re-position icons on the Apple TV. While you can't move those on the top row, you can move others, as follows:&lt;ol&gt;	&lt;li&gt;Select the icon you want to move&lt;/li&gt;	&lt;li&gt;Press and hold Select on the remote&lt;/li&gt;	&lt;li&gt;When the icon begins to jiggle, use the remote to move the icon to a new position&lt;/li&gt;	&lt;li&gt;Press Select again to finish&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/ol&gt;I actually find this to be simpler than on an iOS device. Now, if only they could add folders to the Apple TV...
</description>
</item>
<item>
<title>Use Logitech N305 number pad with Mac</title>
<link>http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20120430010859361</link>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20120430010859361</guid>
<pubDate>Mon, 30 Apr 2012 07:30:00 -0700</pubDate>
<comments>http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20120430010859361#comments</comments>
<dc:subject>Other Hardware</dc:subject>
<description>My right shoulder had been hurting lately, due to the movement necessary to reach my trackpad. I was using a standard, wired Apple keyboard with the number pad on the right, and my Magic Trackpad was to the right of that, making me reach pretty far to access it. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; So, I set out in search of a standalone number pad I could use with my Mac. While I don't work with numbers often, when I do my accounting, it's a pain to have to type numbers from the top row of the keyboard. I looked at a number of models - both wired and wireless - and found what seemed to be the best choice: Logitech's N305. This works with Logitech's Unifying Receiver, is fairly compact, and, according to Logitech, works for three years with a pair of batteries.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; But the N305 does not support Macs. Fortunately, in reviews for the product on Amazon, a number of people posted a solution. Download the free &lt;a href=&quot;http://pqrs.org/macosx/keyremap4macbook/index.html&quot;&gt;KeyRemap4MacBook&lt;/a&gt;, a preference p ...</description>
</item>
<item>
<title>Use (almost) any remote with an Apple TV </title>
<link>http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20120402062522845</link>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20120402062522845</guid>
<pubDate>Mon, 02 Apr 2012 07:30:00 -0700</pubDate>
<comments>http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20120402062522845#comments</comments>
<dc:subject>Other Hardware</dc:subject>
<description>While the small, sleek aluminum remote that comes with the Apple TV is nice, it may be one too many. The Apple TV can work with many other infrared remotes, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3296&quot;&gt;an Apple technical document&lt;/a&gt; outlines the procedure for having the Apple TV &quot;learn&quot; your remote.  &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; You'll need to use the Apple remote to set this up, and you do so by choosing Settings &gt; General &gt; Remotes from the Apple TV's interface. Choose Learn Remote, and press the six buttons that the Apple TV needs to learn. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; Some remotes may not work, so read Apple's technical document for more information. 
</description>
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<title>One fix for non-functioning SuperDrive</title>
<link>http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20120210114733216</link>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20120210114733216</guid>
<pubDate>Tue, 14 Feb 2012 07:30:00 -0800</pubDate>
<comments>http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20120210114733216#comments</comments>
<dc:subject>Other Hardware</dc:subject>
<description>The SuperDrive on my MacBook Pro (circa 2007, rev. D I think), experienced a long, slow decline in its performance, and finally it stopped working altogether.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;When I say 'stopped working,' I mean that it wouldn't recognize a disc: I'd insert the disc, it would spin around a little, make some chugging noises, but then spit it back out. I think it starting doing this for CDs sooner than it did for DVDs (more powerful laser?), but I can't recall for certain. I don't do much with discs, and since it's a 4.5 year old laptop, I never got it serviced, which predictably landed me in a bind. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Anyway, that's when I stumbled across a solution: &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;You take a clean cloth (like a lens cloth for cleaning eyeglasses), drape it over something slim like a business card or a smooth plastic gift card, and plum the depths of your drive in an attempt to clean the lens. Supposedly it's just inside the left boundary, but I plunged my improvised cleaner in everywhere I could, as de ...</description>
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<title>Digital audio-in passthrough with AppleTV2</title>
<link>http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20120202053132306</link>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20120202053132306</guid>
<pubDate>Thu, 02 Feb 2012 07:30:00 -0800</pubDate>
<comments>http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20120202053132306#comments</comments>
<dc:subject>Other Hardware</dc:subject>
<description>I have an Apple TV2 hooked up to a DVI monitor by HDMI, an arrangement which doesn't support audio.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;As the Apple TV2 also has SPDIF optical out, I connected this into my 2011 iMac's optical input so I could hear the ATV sound from the Mac. Looking at the sound input in System Preferences, I could see the connection was working, but I heard nothing from the iMac speakers, even though they were chosen for output. Then it dawned on me that the iMac likely didn't support audio passthrough.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I recalled that QuickTime Player could record audio from an input. So in QT I chose New Audio Recording, chose 'Digital in' as the input, and then slid the volume slider so I could monitor the audio. Works like a treat. There's no need to actually record anything in QuickTime Player.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;[&lt;b&gt;crarko adds:&lt;/b&gt; A clever solution. I have my Apple TV2 hooked up using the standard HDMI setup, so I did not test this.]
</description>
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<item>
<title>Logitech Solar Keyboard and the Scroll Lock/Num Lock keys</title>
<link>http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20120124065426579</link>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20120124065426579</guid>
<pubDate>Wed, 25 Jan 2012 07:30:00 -0800</pubDate>
<comments>http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20120124065426579#comments</comments>
<dc:subject>Other Hardware</dc:subject>
<description>I'm a happy user of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.logitech.com/en-us/keyboards/keyboard/devices/8424&quot;&gt;Logitech Solar Keyboard for Mac&lt;/a&gt; -- never having to change batteries is quite liberating. However, this keyboard lacks a few things, including dedicated Scroll Lock and Num Lock keys, that you may find on other keyboards.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I don't use those two keys often, but I do use them while working in Excel. After some trial and error, and some Googling, I figured out how to turn them on and off. (Because there aren't any physical keys, there aren't any indicator lights for these keys' states. Instead, you have to look at Excel's onscreen indicators, at the lower right corner of the worksheet.)&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;b&gt;Scroll Lock&lt;/b&gt;: Press Shift+F14.&lt;br&gt;&lt;b&gt;Num Lock&lt;/b&gt;: Press Shift+Clear (on the numeric keypad).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I'm not sure if these shortcuts work on other Logitech keyboards or not.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;[&lt;b&gt;crarko adds:&lt;/b&gt; The hassle of dealing with batteries has kept me away from wireless keyboard ...</description>
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<item>
<title>USB 3 on a Mac</title>
<link>http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20111217160646567</link>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20111217160646567</guid>
<pubDate>Mon, 19 Dec 2011 07:30:00 -0800</pubDate>
<comments>http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20111217160646567#comments</comments>
<dc:subject>Other Hardware</dc:subject>
<description>It's worth noting USB 3 devices are faster, even with USB 2. Here's something you may find interesting.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;While Mac's don't support USB 3 yet, USB 3 is backwards compatible with USB 2, which is what recent Mac's have. USB 3 used in under USB 2 conditions (which I'll call USB 3/2 to save typing) is much faster than USB 2.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;For example, the ADATA S102/16GB USB 3 memory stick is about 50% faster than even the fastest USB 2 stick I've found.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;And for more of a surprise, how about this: the &amp;#36;19 Transcend USB 3 card reader (TS-RDF8K) is nearly twice as fast as my fastest USB 2 card reader (500MB copied in 11 sec vs 20 sec.)&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;So, if you're into moving data from your camera faster, get a USB3 card reader even if your computer doesn't support USB 3 yet. As usual, however, YMMV.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;[&lt;b&gt;crarko adds:&lt;/b&gt; I don't think I have any USB 3 devices around to try this. I'm sure we'd all appreciate it if folks who do try this tip and post their results, hopeful ...</description>
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<title>Use the Apple external SuperDrive on (almost) any Mac </title>
<link>http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20111107064435227</link>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20111107064435227</guid>
<pubDate>Fri, 11 Nov 2011 07:30:00 -0800</pubDate>
<comments>http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20111107064435227#comments</comments>
<dc:subject>Other Hardware</dc:subject>
<description>Since the launch of the MacBook Air, Apple produces a nice external optical drive, which unfortunately does not work on every machine; only MacBook Air and some Mac mini models. It was long believed it was due to a hardware limitation, but it is actually due to Mac OS X, as we shall see.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;First of all, why use the Apple drive? There are several reasons. The first one is that it is quite nice-looking. It also uses a slot-in, more convenient than fragile drawers, it can play a DVD without changing the DVD drive, as it is considered as  'Apple-supplied drive' by the system and responds to the Eject button on Apple keyboards.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;It also has two drawbacks: it is quite expensive and its USB cable is ridiculously short and non-removable. But finally, I found it to be more practical than the other drives I tested.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I could not test the handling on many machines; I had a 2009 17-inch MacBook Pro (when working), a 2006 MacBook (which does not work) and a 2010 Mac mini o ...</description>
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<title>How to clean Apple Mighty Mouse video</title>
<link>http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20110902013937590</link>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20110902013937590</guid>
<pubDate>Wed, 05 Oct 2011 07:30:00 -0700</pubDate>
<comments>http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20110902013937590#comments</comments>
<dc:subject>Other Hardware</dc:subject>
<description>This hint points to a really in-depth, hi-resolution take-apart tutorial (on Youtube) about opening, cleaning and closing a dirty wireless Apple Mighty Mouse, presented in English. This is the way to do it after you've tried cleaning the ball from the outside 100 times. Save your mouse from the scrap heap.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NfUNxbSNGjw&quot;&gt;Here's the link.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;[&lt;b&gt;crarko adds:&lt;/b&gt; We've &lt;a href=&quot;http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20060210115417864&quot;&gt;run&lt;/a&gt; other &lt;a href=&quot;http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20070421070225357&quot;&gt;hints&lt;/a&gt; on this before, and it's been quite a popular topic. A video tutorial seems like a good follow-up.]
</description>
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<title>Copy extensions from 10.4.11 to 10.5.8 for Rage Pro cards</title>
<link>http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20110720181233568</link>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20110720181233568</guid>
<pubDate>Thu, 04 Aug 2011 07:30:00 -0700</pubDate>
<comments>http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20110720181233568#comments</comments>
<dc:subject>Other Hardware</dc:subject>
<description>Rage Pro cards were not supported in 10.5.8 so you can copy the ATIRage .kexts from &lt;em&gt;/System/Library/Extensions&lt;/em&gt; of a 10.4.11 drive to your new one. It will update the kext cache and then reboot. You will no longer have no extension loaded in the system profiler for your video card. I'm not sure what benefit this has but I still can't play Wolfenstein because it won't load OpenGL. This works fine in 10.4.11.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;[&lt;b&gt;crarko adds:&lt;/b&gt; I admit to having a weakness for the G3/G4 towers. I loved my Blue and White G3. Anything which prolongs their life is a good tip.]
</description>
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<title>10.7: Prolific 2303 based USB to Serial adapter drivers</title>
<link>http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20110721092446939</link>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20110721092446939</guid>
<pubDate>Tue, 02 Aug 2011 07:30:00 -0700</pubDate>
<comments>http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20110721092446939#comments</comments>
<dc:subject>Other Hardware</dc:subject>
<description>If you have a Prolific 2303 based USB to serial adapter and it no longer works under Lion, installing the Snow Leopard 64-bit driver may fix the issue.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Download the driver from Prolific's site &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.prolific.com.tw/eng/downloads.asp?id=31&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;[&lt;b&gt;crarko adds:&lt;/b&gt; I post this as a generic hint; if a device breaks under Lion check with the vendor to see if 64-bit drivers are available for it.]
</description>
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<title>Delay Before Going into Sleep Mode</title>
<link>http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20110214120554497</link>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20110214120554497</guid>
<pubDate>Wed, 15 Jun 2011 07:30:00 -0700</pubDate>
<comments>http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20110214120554497#comments</comments>
<dc:subject>Other Hardware</dc:subject>
<description>I had been experiencing a thirty second delay when I tried to put my iMac into Sleep mode.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I discovered that after I hooked up a USB modem to receive faxes that I had left the 'Receive faxes on this computer' option checked in the Receive Options of the Fax preferences. Unchecking that box enabled me to go into Sleep mode with no delay.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;[&lt;b&gt;crarko adds:&lt;/b&gt; USB devices have often been culprits in Sleep problems with Macs for a long time, as indicated in these &lt;a href=&quot;http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20070729205103490&quot;&gt;previous&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20051106062400408&quot;&gt;hints&lt;/a&gt;. Checking them out is always a good step in troubleshooting problems with Sleep/Wake from Sleep.]
</description>
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<title>Swap Command and Alt keys on USB keyboard</title>
<link>http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20110529094802391</link>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20110529094802391</guid>
<pubDate>Wed, 01 Jun 2011 07:30:00 -0700</pubDate>
<comments>http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20110529094802391#comments</comments>
<dc:subject>Other Hardware</dc:subject>
<description>Today I ruined my silver Apple keyboard by spilling coffee on it and had to switch back to an old  PC keyboard with a German layout. Which is a fine keyboard with one very annoying attribute: the Control (Windows) and Alt keys are swapped, the bottom keys are from left to right: Ctrl - Windows(Command) - Alt - Space. It can drive you crazy. So I searched for a solution but it was not as obvious as I had expected.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;With Snow Leopard the mapping can be changed via &lt;em&gt;System Preferences &amp;raquo; Keyboard&lt;/em&gt;, there choose  'Modifier keys...' and in the Dialog remap Alt (Option) and Command. However, some applications, like Eclipse, do not get these changes.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;So, I would like to swap the modifiers further down at the input driver level. There are descriptions how to modify &lt;em&gt;AppleUSBKeyboard.kext&lt;/em&gt;. That seems to be outdated since I can not find &lt;em&gt;AppleUSBKeyboard.kext&lt;/em&gt; on Snow Leopard (10.6.7) anymore. But looking at  ...</description>
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<title>Mapping volume and eject keys to 3rd-party keyboard</title>
<link>http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=2011051714140216</link>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=2011051714140216</guid>
<pubDate>Thu, 19 May 2011 07:30:00 -0700</pubDate>
<comments>http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=2011051714140216#comments</comments>
<dc:subject>Other Hardware</dc:subject>
<description>If you have a keyboard that does not have eject and volume controls natively (like Das Keyboard), you can map them using KeyRemap4MacBook (it works for more than MacBook though!). This is kernel level mapping, so the keys act native, contrary to solutions provided by Quicksilver or Spark.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Download and install &lt;a href=&quot;http://pqrs.org/macosx/keyremap4macbook/&quot;&gt;KeyRemap4Macbook&lt;/a&gt;. Despite the name, it works for any Mac, not just the Macbook. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;You can search through the preferences and see if any of the built-ins work for you. I chose to do my mappings manually, as it allows you to map any key to any key.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Open up your &lt;em&gt;private.xml&lt;/em&gt; through the &quot;Misc &amp; Uninstall&quot; tab of KeyRemap4Macbook. The following code maps Insert, Home, and Pageup to Volume Down, Up, and Mute respectively. Those keys are pretty useless anyway, so you probably won't miss them. If you wanted to map them to something else, you can do that here. If you want syntax on different keys, ...</description>
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<title>Cinema Display FireWire cable length nuisance solution</title>
<link>http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20110504203401953</link>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20110504203401953</guid>
<pubDate>Thu, 05 May 2011 07:30:00 -0700</pubDate>
<comments>http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20110504203401953#comments</comments>
<dc:subject>Other Hardware</dc:subject>
<description>Here's how to simply use the FireWire 400 hub in your 30&quot; Cinema Display (DVI) with the dual-link adaptor, without the massive nest of unused cable just so the FireWire from the display can reach your computer.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;You've upgraded to a new machine with a Mini DisplayPort, and want to keep using your dual-link DVI display. The cable is rather long, and includes USB, but no FireWire. You could try to plug the FireWire into your machine, but the slack they give you is so little, you get a nest from the coiled dual-link adaptor. And its even more awkward if you use a 400-800 adaptor stub.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Here's what I did. Get a normal male-male FireWire cable (800-to-400 if your machine has an 800 port), and just plug it into the back of your Cinema Display. Now you can still hook up 2 FireWire 400 devices thru the monitor: one using the unused port on the back of the Cinema Display, and one using the unused male connection at the end of the monitor's own cable.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Explanation: th ...</description>
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<title>Play World of Warcraft with a Joystick/Gamepad in 10.6</title>
<link>http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20110408075300201</link>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20110408075300201</guid>
<pubDate>Mon, 11 Apr 2011 07:30:00 -0700</pubDate>
<comments>http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20110408075300201#comments</comments>
<dc:subject>Other Hardware</dc:subject>
<description>World of Warcraft, as many other games, doesn't have native support for a Joystick or Gamepad.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;The solution is to map axis and buttons to key strokes using a device mapping software. I've tried &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.usboverdrive.com/&quot;&gt;USB Overdrive&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.orderedbytes.com/controllermate/&quot;&gt;ControllerMate&lt;/a&gt;. These are my conclusions:&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;USB Overdrive: Easy to use but limited in functionality. The main drawback is that it takes ownership of the Magic Mouse and converts it into an ordinary 2 button mouse. The programmer seems working hard to fix this issue. Stay tuned.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;ControllerMate: Very powerful, a bit daunting at first. It kept my Magic Mouse controlled by the Operating System. It can even create virtual devices mapped to the Joystick that can be used by any application.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;My World of Warcraft Configuration:&lt;ul&gt;  &lt;li&gt;Create a Virtual Mouse and map the Joystick Y axis (or alternatively, the Rotation axis) to the Virtual Mouse Y a ...&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/ul&gt;</description>
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<title>Enable trim support on Apple and third party SSD’s</title>
<link>http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20110326064058903</link>
<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20110326064058903</guid>
<pubDate>Tue, 29 Mar 2011 07:30:00 -0700</pubDate>
<comments>http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20110326064058903#comments</comments>
<dc:subject>Other Hardware</dc:subject>
<description>The folks at hardmac.com have found a way to modify a system extension that came with the 10.6.7 update, to enable trim support on pretty much all SSD drives that support trim.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I tested their modified extension on an OCZ Vertex 2 SSD in a mid 2009 MBP running 10.6.7 and 10.7 and both system info report trim support: Yes.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Here's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hardmac.com/news/2011/03/25/how-to-activate-trim-on-any-ssd&quot;&gt;the link&lt;/a&gt; to the article.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;As noted by them, the fact that system info reports that trim support is on, doesn't mean it's actually working until another way of checking it is found in OS X. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;[&lt;b&gt;crarko adds:&lt;/b&gt; This procedure involves editing a kernel extension by hand with a hex editor. I'll put it out here as a possibility if you really think you need it, but if you mess up (especially on a MacBook Air) you may be looking at a wipe/reinstall, so make sure you have a complete backup of the system before attempting this. Proceed at your own ...</description>
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