Well, with Safari 1.3 in Mac OS 10.3.9, this no longer works. Instead, you simply need to expand the window horizontally, and both speed and time remaining will show up. If the window is too thin, only time remaining shows.
[robg adds: Safari 1.3 brings nearly all of Safari's Tiger improvements to 10.3 -- for a good idea of what's been changed, check out Safari lead developer Dave Hyatt's weblog entry on the subject. Dave's also been hard at work fixing glitches in Safari's rendering of Acid2 Browser Test, and it's kind of neat to see his progress on display in his weblog. When we'll get to see those fixes in an updated Safari release, though, is not yet known...]

