This evening it suddenly dawned on me that the solution was trivial. I opened the TextEdit.pbproj project in the /Developer -> Examples -> Appkit -> TextEdit folder, changed the hard-wired "72" values in Document.m to "36," and hit the run button. Presto! Problem solved!
[robg adds: This worked for me in XCode, though the button is labeled "Build and Go," not "Run."]